
Bistrot
A croque-monsieur is the French baked ham and cheese toast: two slices of sandwich bread with Dijon mustard, ham and Emmental, topped with thick béchamel and more cheese, then browned under the grill.
French cafés have served it for more than a hundred years, and Marcel Proust mentions it in his novel In Search of Lost Time. At home it takes half an hour. The trick is a thick béchamel that bakes onto the toast instead of running off it.
Melt the butter in a small pan, add the flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring all the time. The flour should not brown.
Pour in the cold milk a little at a time, whisking so no lumps form. Simmer the béchamel over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes until thick. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and take it off the heat. It thickens further as it cools.
Heat the oven to 200 °C and line a tray with baking paper. Butter four slices of bread on one side and lay them on the tray, butter side down.
Spread the slices on the tray with a thin layer of mustard, lay the ham on top and scatter over half the cheese. Close with the remaining slices of bread and press down lightly.
Spread a thick layer of béchamel over the tops, right to the edges so the crusts do not burn, and cover with the rest of the cheese.
Bake for 10 minutes. Then switch on the grill and give the toasts another 2 to 3 minutes, until the cheese bubbles and browns in spots. Under the grill, cheese can burn in less than a minute, so stay by the oven.
Let the toasts sit for 2 minutes so the cheese does not run out when you cut them. Serve with fries or a green salad with vinaigrette.
Choose bread with a fine, tight crumb, ideally sandwich bread. Sourdough has big holes and the béchamel would run through them.
For a crisper base, fry the assembled sandwich in butter on both sides first. Then spread on the béchamel, add the cheese and grill it for 3 to 4 minutes.
You can stir a handful of grated cheese into the béchamel. The French call that a Mornay sauce, and it makes the toast even cheesier.
Bistrot lunch, galettes, crêpes and Sorre cider: Fresh Market, 1st floor, Monday to Saturday.